Reader question: I have clogged pores around my mouth and chin, and my skin feels really tight. Do you have any suggestions? — Jacki Pauley I have some good news and bad news. I’ll start with the bad: Based on your symptoms (clogged pores and tightness), it sounds like you have congested skin. The good news: It hasn’t turned into acne—yet—so long as you clear up those blockages. What causes congested skin, exactly? The skin’s sebaceous glands constantly produce sebum to lubricate the skin. However, if this natural sebum is mixed and accumulated with things like dirt, pollution, sweat, dead skin cells, or makeup, your pores will get clogged. It’s important to note that this is different from acne. “Think of traffic congestion where vehicles clog the roadways. Skin congestion takes place when dead cells clog our pores to cause a bumpy surface,” says Loretta Ciraldo MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Loretta skincare. “Sometimes we consider congestion as a precursor to acne, although most acne is also accompanied by congested skin at large.” According to celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau, one telltale sign of a clogged pore is that it doesn’t go away. While red, infected blemishes tend to resolve, closed comedones just hang around. Because there isn’t an infection, your body isn’t working as hard to get rid of it, and the pore could remain blocked for a very long time unless you get a manual extraction. Of course, when a pore is blocked, it can (and often eventually does) lead to an inflamed blemish. This is because the mixture of dead skin cells and oil blocks oxygen from reaching the pore, and without the presence of oxygen, P. acnes bacteria—i.e., what causes acne—is able to thrive. If you have congested skin, you’ll probably notice general “bumpiness” and an overall dull appearance. However, Rouleau says that clogged skin can primarily be broken down into three categories: papules/whiteheads, blackheads, and milia.
Papules/Whiteheads
After a pore becomes clogged and forms a closed comedone, the next stage of a blemish is called a papule. It’s the result of a clogged pore becoming inflamed due to infection and usually means it’s on its way to becoming a full-fledged pimple, complete with a surface whitehead that can eventually be extracted. (This final stage is also known as a pustule, aka a good ol’ zit.) Solution: Apply a non-drying, anti-inflammatory spot treatment. Once the papule turns into a whitehead and is ready to be extracted, it can be gently squeezed out. After this, you can apply a drying spot treatment to knock out any infection lingering inside the pore.
Blackheads
Fun fact, blackheads ARE technically a type of clogged pore. Instead of closed comedones, they’re what’s known as open comedones. What happens is that, instead of being trapped under the surface of the skin, the gunk inside the pore is exposed to air. This causes it to oxidize and turn black (or sometimes more of a grayish color). Hence, a blackhead. Solution: Using a chemical exfoliant is a great way to clear clogged pores. “Exfoliate once to twice per week to remove dead skin cells,” says Luigi L. Polla, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Forever Institut and Alchimie Forever. “Think of it like a skin reset. This will help pores stay as clean as possible.”
Milia
Milia is a form of a clogged pore that occurs when keratin gets trapped under the surface of the skin. They are usually more perfectly-rounded than closed comedones (they’re sometimes described as little “pearls”) and are often more off-white in color. It’s common to see milia around the eyes, but they can also crop up around the nose or on the cheeks. People commonly get them from greasy eye creams or smoking, which leads to under-circulated skin. Solution: It’s very important not to squeeze milia on your own. They are very challenging to remove since the skin over the bump is very hardened, so picking at it will just damage your skin. Instead, consult a cosmetic dermatologist or a qualified esthetician. Once removed, milia usually won’t come back in that same pore.
How to Get Rid of Congested Skin
All that being said, there are some general rules to follow when it comes to congested skin. Dr. Polla recommends avoiding mineral oil in your products (this can clog pores), along with silicone and any silicone derivatives. You should also be looking out for the word “non-comedogenic” on your product labels. To prevent clogged pores from coming back, be consistent but gentle with your cleansing. By that, I mean use a pH-balanced cleanser twice per day with lukewarm (not hot!) water. Dr. Ciraldo adds that occasional at-home steaming sessions can work wonders. And the main thing—exfoliation! Retinol and AHAs and BHAs—like glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acid—followed by proper hydration, is the key to eliminating those pesky clogs. “We need to use products that can get into pores to unglue dead cells from each other so they are released or ‘purged,’” says Dr. Ciraldo. To aid in your search, I compiled a list of the best products for clogged pores and congested skin (plus some personal recs from our aforementioned experts).
